I had the opportunity to visit New Orleans for the very
first time back in January. In celebration of Mardi Gras, I
wanted to share with you some of my favorite restaurants and entertainment from
The Big Easy.
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| famous "Blue Dog" painting |
The first restaurant we visited was a recommendation from the
concierge. We had just arrived at the hotel and it was too early to check into
our room. So we walked a few blocks down the street to a minimalistic place
called ROOT. It features modern American cuisine in Old World flavors and
technique. We had the house-made charcuterie featuring “face” bacon served with
pickled cauliflower and strawberries and artisanal mustard. I also had the best
fish and chips of my life.
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| face bacon charcuterie at Root |
The Palace Café is a classic New Orleans restaurant serving
contemporary Creole food in an upbeat and lively grand café. Walking into the restaurant
felt like walking into a party scene from The Great Gatsby. The wait staff wore
black bowties and the tables were covered with white tablecloths. It was an
instant throwback to old school NOLA. We attended a dinner party there our
first night, so getting all dolled up in formal attire just added to the
ambiance. The standout dishes from this restaurant included the turtle soup and
white chocolate bread pudding, a NOLA original.
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| traditional street fare at the French Market |
French Market
I spent one of my mornings strolling around the French
Market, a large variety of artisan stands in the French Quarter. Some of my
favorite stands included strands upon strands of colorful beads and jewelry
made from salvaged metals found in the Hurricane Katrina wreckage. The
surrounding stores house incredible artwork including jewelry, paintings and
sculptures from local artists.
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| beads upon beads at the French Market |
The atmosphere in this restaurant was incredible. It was
colorful and fun with outstanding casual New Orleans seafood. I indulged in the
shrimp and grits and a few dirty martinis. The best part about this restaurant,
in addition to the exceptional seafood, is its location on Bourbon Street. Once
you’ve indulged in dinner you can walk out the door and right down the famous
New Orleans street for some evening and early morning entertainment.
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| the original Cafe Du Monde |
VIP City Bus tour
I know it’s got “tourist” written all over it, but I really do
swear by city bus tours, especially when I have an extremely limited timeframe
to take it all in. In less than three hours I was able to see the entire French
Quarter, the neighborhoods affected by hurricane Katrina, St. Louis Cemetery No. 3, the Garden District
and the Superdome. It’s a great way to get a little taste of everything in the
city and then you can decide what you want to go back to and explore in more
detail.
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| tombstones at St. Louis Cemetery No. 3 (there are three St. Louis cemeteries) |
I had the most unique culinary experience here at Antoine’s,
the country’s oldest family-run restaurant established in 1840. The meal
started with Oysters Rockefeller, the famous baked oyster dish that was
originated by Antoine’s founder from a recipe developed in 1889. The classic
ingredients were whipped into a soufflé and served on the half shell. I also
tasted a new fish for the first time—pompano, a mild flavored fish with a firm
texture. After seeing crème caramel on the menu for dessert, it was an easy
ordering decision. My grandmother fell in love with Antoine’s crème caramel
back in the 70’s and when she opened a restaurant in the early 80’s she
recreated the recipe for her own dessert menu. The sweet treat was very
reminiscent of the dessert I used to watch her make in the restaurant kitchen
when I was a little girl.
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| Hurricane drinks at Pat O'Brien's |
My aunt, whose favorite city is New Orleans, highly encouraged
me to visit the classic watering hole of Pat O’Brien’s located on St. Peter and
Bourbon St. After dinner one night, we stopped to have our fill of the world
famous fruity rum cocktail known as the Hurricane. It was delicious! And way too
easy to throw a few too many of them back.
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| storefront at Rev. Zombie's Voodoo Shop |
Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo
Shop
I was determined to find an authentic voodoo shop while I
was here. While there were plenty of touristy voodoo shops that sold t-shirts
and Mardis Gras beads, Rev. Zombie’s Voodoo Shop was definitely the real deal.
I found everything from magical talismans, spell candles and even eye of newt.
It’s located right across the street from Pat O’Brien’s, but I don’t recommend drunk
shopping here…you might scare yourself in the morning when you review your
shopping bag.
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| entrance to the House of Blues |
Maison and other jazz
bars on Frenchman Street
After learning where all the great jazz bars are in NOLA
(thank you VIP City Tour) we hunkered down at Maison on Frenchman Street. We sipped
on Southern Peaches, a peach and ginger infused vodka with peach bitters, simple
syrup, club soda and sprite—a cocktail fit for a southern peach—and got in the rhythm—or
lack thereof—of the jazz music played by a variety of local jazz bands.
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| The Gumbo Shop on Saint Peter Street |
All my life I kept hearing the story about my dad’s family
eating at The Gumbo Shop during their trip to NOLA in the 70’s. Parts of the
story I recall include eating Tabasco sauce on crackers to curb their hunger
while waiting to be seated, consuming dozens upon dozens of raw oysters and the
best. Gumbo. Ever. On my last day in
NOLA I found out my great aunt had passed away. She was one of the original
Salezze’s to visit NOLA with the family back in the day. A little melancholy
after the news and with a few hours before it was time to catch my flight, I
decided a little New Orleans comfort food was in order and we ended up at, the
award winning Gumbo Shop. Seriously, it was the best. Gumbo. Ever. Even more
poignant was passing St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square on the way and slipping in to light a candle in
honor of my great Aunt Erma’s memory.
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| lit candle at the St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square |
I couldn’t leave the city without indulging in beignets and café
au lait, and where else but the original coffee stand at Café Du Monde.
Beignets are square French-style donuts served hot and lavishly covered with
powdered sugar. The café is opened 24/7 and has a limited menu of beignets and
coffee. It is definitely a NOLA tradition not to be missed!
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| beignets & cafe au lait BEFORE |
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| beignets & cafe au lait AFTER |
Let it Bead,
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